“Persian restaurant is hidden treasure”

Posted: 08 Oct 2010 07:07 PM PDT

ANAHEIM – No one stumbles accidentally into Hatam restaurant in Anaheim, even though it's located on busy Brookhurst Street at La Palma Avenue.

In fact, it's so well hidden, you almost need a compass to find it, as it's tucked behind a gas station in a tiny rundown strip mall.

Chicken Shish Kabob features marinated chicken breast in Hatam's special sauce, charbroiled bell peppers, onions, tomatoes and imported basmati rice at Hatam Restaurant in Anaheim.

CINDY YAMANAKA, THE ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER

Hatam Restaurant

Where: 1112 N Brookhurst St. Anaheim, CA 92801

Contact info: (714) 991-6262, hatamrestaurant.net

Hours: Open 7 days a week from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. They offer lunch specials Mon-Fri

No alcohol

Meat is prepared Halal style

Recommended

Dolmeh, hummus and borani, koobideh

That makes it even more remarkable that this place has been a popular dining establishment for more than 20 years, and it attracts a steady business of regulars and fans of quality Persian cuisine.

And, despite the shabby mall exterior, the family restaurant inside is nice enough for date night, with tapestries, mirrors and artwork in gilt frames.

The restaurant has been owned since 1989 by brothers Hossein and Abdullah Rajab, who emigrated from Iran and it's clearly a locals' favorite.

On my first visit, I ordered the restaurant's most popular dish, chicken shish kabob, recommended by my friendly server, which is marinated in lemon juice, salt, pepper, corn oil and saffron before being charbroiled.

It was served with sliced bell peppers and grilled tomatoes as well as basmati rice.

It had a good flavor from the marinade, and was slightly dry, which was disappointing, though it was still edible.

What wasn't disappointing was the large combination appetizer plate that I ordered almost as an afterthought, because my kids and I were so hungry that day.

So large it took up half the table, it was filled with delicious bowls of borani, stuffed grape leaves, salad Shirazi and hummus, with sliced flatbread for dipping.

Borani has always been a challenge for me, because I want to like this pureed eggplant dish on principle, since it's so good for you. But eggplant is often bitter, and I've never really found a borani that I loved.

Well, I don't know how they prepare the borani at Hatam, but it was hands-down the best I've ever eaten. Later on the phone, in fact, I pumped restaurant manager Jay Moradkhani to tell me, but he was vague about the details.

The dolmeh, or stuffed grape leaves, were served hot. The delicious filling was made from rice, ground beef, tarragon, split peas, onions and herbs.

The salad, which I'd never tasted before, was reminiscent of a minced potato salad with just the right amount of tang.

I haven't mentioned the hummus, which also had a good flavor from the pureed garbanzo beans, tahini, lemon juice, garlic and olive oil.

The only problem I had with this large appetizer plate was that my finicky kids wouldn't eat any of the unfamiliar foods, so I was forced to eat most of it myself. This was not an unpleasant prospect by any means, but it did make me wish I hadn't ordered an entrée as well.

For the kids, I ordered the koobideh lunch special, which at $6.99 was the cheapest lunch on the menu. It came with the long skewer of marinated ground beef and basmati rice, and the children attacked it with gusto. They then declared we should come back, just so they could again get it again.

Although this isn't the cheapest restaurant in town (lunch for the three of us came to $38), the food was good, service was pleasant and the portions were so enormous that we ate the leftovers for dinner as well.

On my return visit, I tried to resist the appetizer plate, knowing it was too much food, but I just couldn't stop myself. It tasted as delicious as the first time, and I know I'll enjoy it the next time I come as well.

Only the next time, I'll make sure I'm very, very hungry.

Orange County Register reviewers visit restaurants anonymously and pay their own way, for an objective and unbiased look at each establishment. After visits, reviewers phone the restaurant to arrange photos and get more details. Money, gifts or free meals are not accepted in exchange for reviews.

Contact the writer: Mfisher@ocregister.com

Article

ANAHEIM – No one stumbles accidentally into Hatam restaurant in Anaheim, even though it's located on busy Brookhurst Street at La Palma Avenue.

In fact, it's so well hidden, you almost need a compass to find it, as it's tucked behind a gas station in a tiny rundown strip mall.

That makes it even more remarkable that this place has been a popular dining establishment for more than 20 years, and it attracts a steady business of regulars and fans of quality Persian cuisine.

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