“Summer House appealing for all seasons”

Posted: 23 Jul 2010 07:22 PM PDT

I visited Corona del Mar's newest restaurant with a craving for summer. The heat and sun had yet to arrive with a vengeance, but Summer House beckoned like a hammock swaying in the sea breeze.

Even from Pacific Coast Highway, Summer House evokes the tasteful yet cozy charm of a Cape Cod beach home. Bay windows open out above cheery copper flower boxes. The white paneled interior with mint accents looks as cool as the mojitos served at the bar, where a bookshelf stores bottles of wine in addition to hardback cookbooks. Black and white beach scenes hang on the walls, reminiscent of postcards sent from a favorite vacation.

Summer House

Where: 2744 E. Coast Highway, Corona Del Mar

Contact: 949-612-7700

Hours: Sunday–Thursday: 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.

Friday–Saturday: 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.

Recommended:

Summer Ice cocktail

Hot Artichoke and Spinach Dip

Ahi Poke with Wonton Chips

BBQ Chicken Salad

Macadamia Nut Crusted Mahi Mahi

We arrived on the cloudy Friday night that started the long July Fourth weekend. I'd called earlier in the day to make a reservation but was told they weren't accepted. I was welcome to add my name to the wait list shortly before arriving. I checked in at a little counter, where sunflowers burst from a watering can, next to a jar of saltwater taffy. Despite the other parties waiting, we were seated almost immediately.

My boyfriend immediately noticed the diverse crowd — couples with infant carriers in tow, middle-aged vacationers in T-shirts and Tevas, and 20-somethings dressed for the club scene. The restaurant was packed and noisy, particularly at our table, closest to PCH and the open windows.

Summer House, which opened last month in the old Avila's El Ranchito location, is the latest venture of Mark and Cindy Holechek. The couple previously owned The Cabana in Laguna Beach and the former chef there, Javier Flores, is back with them. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner, and weekend breakfast will be offered soon.

We were greeted quickly by a friendly server who first asked if we'd been in before. She gave us her undivided attention and menu recommendations.

I'm a vegetarian and other than one salad, there were no strictly meatless entrees. She told me I could order any salad without fish or meat, as well as the brie burger without the patty.

We started with hot artichoke and spinach dip ($9) and ahi poke with wonton chips ($12). Still in the mood for anything resembling summer, I ordered the Icy Summer cocktail ($10). It looked as beautiful as a vase of flowers in a tall glass with St. Germain, pinot grigio and muddled strawberries and mint. The drink tasted as refreshing as it looked.

I really liked the spinach dip, which was made with brie, mozzarella and parmesan and arrived in a baking dish with bubbled golden brown texture on top. Instead of the usual puree, the dish retained tears of wilted spinach and substantial chunks of artichoke.

My boyfriend raved about the fresh tuna's flavorful pairing with avocado, red onion and sesame seeds. He especially liked scooping it all up with the fried wontons.

I decided to try the burger-less brie burger. I was pleased when our server came back to ask if I was comfortable having the homemade bun toasted on the grill or if I preferred no contact with any meat residue. The sandwich arrived with a few slices of brie, caramelized onions, tomato, arugula and avocado. It tasted good, but certainly wasn't different from something I could make at home. But then again, what did I expect when ordering a burger without the burger? Later, when the check came, I noticed she only charged $8 instead of the regular $12, another nice touch.

When my boyfriend ordered the macadamia nut crusted Mahi Mahi ($17), she said that was the most popular menu item, served with mustard sauce, chunky horseradish mashed potatoes and a spicy little mound of red peppers and cilantro that lent an interesting flair.

On our next visit, we went for lunch, this time on a drizzling work day. Like before, the restaurant was crowded and loud. The only open table was the same one we'd had the previous time.

We ordered chicken and vegetable pot stickers ($8) drizzled with wasabi aioli and accompanied with teriyaki dipping sauce and chop sticks. I devoured a lovely heap of Asian Slaw in the middle of the platter. I loved the crisp, vibrant combination of daikon sprouts, red and green cabbage and shredded carrots with cilantro vinaigrette. Next time, I will order that as a side dish.

I wanted to try a side of macaroni and cheese ($4) plus I ordered the Cabana salad without shrimp ($10). I enjoyed the variety of hearts of palm and black olives, in addition to the usual salad fixings, along with an understated creamy house vinaigrette. But I was disappointed that the mixed greens were predominantly iceberg lettuce, which I found lackluster. The elbow pasta, coated in crisp crust of baked cheddar, was soaked in a generous bath of creamy sauce with red pepper flakes. It was tasty, but rich enough that I had my fill after a few bites.

The BBQ chicken salad ($12) was abundant and tasty with barbecue vinaigrette dressing. Once again, we were too stuffed to even consider dessert (a chocolate soufflé cake or fresh berries and ice cream, both $6). We found the service friendly and prompt. We paid the check after exactly an hour, perfect for a work day and the daytime one-hour day parking limit on the street.

On the way out, I reached for two pieces of taffy to take a last bite of summer to go.

Orange County Register reviewers visit restaurants anonymously and pay their own way, for an objective and unbiased look at each establishment. After visits, reviewers phone the restaurant to arrange photos and get more details. Money, gifts or free meals are not accepted in exchange for reviews.

Contact the writer: 714-796-3686 or cperkes@ocregister.com

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