Friday, December 31, 2010

“Recent restaurant reviews”

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“Recent restaurant reviews”


Recent restaurant reviews

Posted: 31 Dec 2010 12:13 AM PST

The following are shortened versions of recent full-length restaurant reviews. The date the original review ran and its overall rating are in parentheses. If there are more stars than dollar signs, consider it a good value.

AMERICAN

Boiler House Restaurant, 1414 Harbour Blvd. S., Richmond. 510-215-6000; www.boilerhouserestaurant.com. This gastro pub offers glorious views, an industrial-chic vibe and wallet-friendly appeal, plus great little tacos and tasty burgers. $. (H H H on 2/5/10)

The Farmer Restaurant, Pleasanton Hotel, 855 Main St., Pleasanton. 925-399-6690; www.pleasantonhotel.com. This cozy, country-style restaurant exudes down-home comfort. The food -- Veal Oscar, for example, a Chicken Marsala Pasta and luscious house-made desserts -- are delicious. Devotees also rave about the Sunday brunch, with omelet station and Bloody Mary bar. $$. (H H H ½ on 4/16/10)

Five at Hotel Shattuck, 2086 Allston Way, Berkeley. 510-845-7300; www.five-berkeley.com. This modern American bistro showcases fresh, seasonal American cuisine. Don't miss the short ribs "pot roast" with white cheddar polenta, and luscious butterscotch pudding with peanut butter brittle. $$-$$$. (H H H ½ on 1/15/10)

Jack's Restaurant & Bar, 60 Crescent Drive, Suite A, Pleasant Hill. 925-849-6195;

href='http://www.jacksrestaurants.com'>www.jacksrestaurants.com. It may look upscale, but the Marcovici brothers' restaurant blends family-friendliness with tasty American cuisine and Mediterranean flair, including a tender pork chop with zesty heirloom tomato-basil relish and a butterscotch creme brulee. Add in patio dining and a nice children's menu, and it's a winner. $$. (H H H on 10/1/10)

Sailor Jacks, 123 First St., Benicia. 707-746-8500. Just about every seat at Benicia's newest restaurant offers gorgeous views of the water and Carquinez Bridge, and a completely remodeled interior adds to the comfort. Sailor Jack's has a seafood emphasis so expect clam chowder, garlic vodka prawns and similar offerings. The Chocolate Seduction Cake is fantastic. $$-$$$. (H H H on 7/16/10)

Sidebar, 542 Grand Ave., Oakland. 510-452-9500; www.sidebar-oakland.com. Sidebar, a gastro pub in Oakland's Lake Merritt District, casts fancy spells on classic comfort foods. Try the Brined & Grilled Double Cut Pork Chop with a ragout of soft, bacon-spiked cannellini beans. For dessert, try the ever-comforting Almond Joy ($6.50). $$. (H H H on 4/10/09)

Southern Heritage Smoked Bar-B-Q, 40645 Fremont Blvd., Fremont. 510-668-1850. There's a whole lot of soul in this Fremont strip mall -- terrific barbecued chicken dish, pulled pork, baby back ribs and other classic barbecue fare. $-$$. (H H ½ on 1/22/10)

SR24, 5179 Telegraph Ave., Berkeley. 510-655-9300; www.sr24food.com. Temescal's newest restaurant offers fun, eclectic decor and a mix of offerings ranging from down-home comfort food to high-end seasonal fare, from fried chicken to refined olive oil-poached halibut. Save room for the tiny, piping hot, crisply sugared doughnut holes with creamy coffee dipping sauce for dessert. $$-$$$. (H H ½ on 9/3/10)

Up & Under Pub & Grill, 2 West Richmond Ave., Point Richmond. 510-778-1313; www.theupandunder.com. This rugby-themed pub and grill, with its wood-paneled walls, pressed copper ceiling and historical photos, is casual and cozy. The menu boasts hearty sandwiches -- pulled pork, quadruple cheese melts and classic burgers -- as well as salads and seafood, all with rugby names. $-$$. (H H H on 7/2/10)

Wayfare Tavern, 558 Sacramento St., S.F. 415-772-9060; www.wayfaretavern.com. Celebrity chef Tyler Florence's new restaurant is all about comfort classics, and there's something here for everyone. An open kitchen downstairs gives Florence fans a chance to watch him in action, with a front-row seat at the chef's counter. Great atmosphere with friendly, engaging servers, and the fried chicken is tops. $$-$$$. (H H ½ on 11/5/10)

ASIAN/PACIFIC RIM

Asia Palace, 1460 Moraga Road, Moraga. 925-376-0809. At first glance, this comes across as a traditional Chinese restaurant in a small place, but it's really a culinary experience not to be missed. Everything we sampled was incredible. Favorites were chicken corn soup and honey walnut prawns. Sushi is also served. And it's a rare night when guests don't receive something for free -- an appetizer, sushi plate, dessert, etc. $$. (H H H on 8/14/09)

Chef Jon Lee, 1250 Newell Ave., Suite J, Walnut Creek. 925-935-9335; www.chefjonlee.com. This little place boasts an exceptional blending of Italian and Pacific Island flavors with traditional Asian cuisine. The food is dynamite, from the sticky crunchy chicken to the baby back spareribs smothered in Lee's fusion marinade sauce. The food is spectacular. The service needs considerable work. $$. (H H ½ on 12/3/10)

The Door, 1448 South Main St., Walnut Creek. 925-930-8088; www.thedoorrestaurant.com. With dark woods, sultry reds, dimmed lights and a raised communal table, the interior design of this modern-Pan-Asian restaurant -- with small plates, Asian entrees and an off-hours street bites menu -- sets a crisp tone that says, "Bring a date, not a toddler." $$. (H H ½ on 8/13/10)

Modern China Cafe, 1525 North Main St., Walnut Creek. 925-988-8008; www.modernchinacafe.com. Eric Zhang's new Chinese restaurant offers a near-perfect dining experience with impeccable service, delicious fare and striking decor that includes bold burnt-orange walls, chocolate-brown ceilings and prints of old Shanghai. Try the appetizer platter, which includes a coconut prawn, spare rib, pot sticker and avocado onion spring roll. $$. (H H H ½ on 6/11/10)

Sais T, 961 Bluebell Drive, Livermore. 925-294-8698. Don't let the strip mall setting put you off. This Chinese/Vietnamese restaurant draws a bustling lunchtime crowd eager to dip into piping-hot fried imperial rolls and a beautifully prepared dish called Green, Purple and White -- a garlicky mélange of crunchy string beans, tender eggplant and creamy tofu -- that may end up converting people to vegetarianism. $. (H H on 10/23/09)

CALIFORNIA

Artisan Bistro, 1005 Brown Ave., Lafayette. 925-962-0882. Chef-owner John Marquez puts his distinctive flair on seasonal California French cuisine with local, organic and artisanal ingredients. The restaurant's design blends well with an understated downtown Lafayette and the menu resonates well with the area. $$$. (H H H on 5/1/09)

Commis, 3859 Piedmont Ave., Oakland. 510-653-3902; www.commisrestaurant.com. This prix-fixe restaurant garnered its first Michelin star within four months of opening, and that reputation is well-deserved. Warm service, a world-class wine list and jazz-filled minimalist décor combine with outrageously wonderful, eclectic food -- a Moroccan-influenced Slow Roast Lamb Saddle, for example, served on puréed white yams with spring onions, baby carrots and a spiced almond vinaigrette. $$$$. (H H H H on 4/2/10)

eVe, 1960 University Ave., Berkeley. 510-868-0735; www.eve-berkeley.com. This intimate restaurant near Berkeley's arts district puts the emphasis on seasonal, handcrafted, neo-artisanal American fare, served in double-course small-plate portions. Don't miss the desserts, including a glazed chocolate cream atop mini carrot cakes with honeycomb crunch and cocoa streusel. $$$. (H H ½ on 10/29/10)

Gather, 2200 Oxford St., Berkeley. 510-809-0400; www.gatherrestaurant.com. Seasonal, organic food in such creative, intriguing flavor combinations, they'll leave you yearning for more. Half the menu is vegetarian and vegan, but even resolute carnivores will find themselves tempted by the vegan charcuterie platter -- five gorgeous, flavorful vegetable medleys. Also open for weekend brunch. $$. (H H H H on 4/23/10)

Henry's, 2600 Durant Ave., Berkeley. 510-809-4132; www.henryberkeley.com. With a new dining room, menu and internationally minded chef, this UC Berkeley haunt likely will bring in a more sophisticated crowd than your average gastro pub. Ignite your appetite with the Turmeric and Ginger Mushrooms. For entrees, it doesn't get more comforting than the Spaetzle. $$$. (H H ½ on 5/20/09)

Lake Chalet Seafood Bar and Grill, 1520 Lakeside Drive, Oakland. 510-208-5253; www.thelakechalet.com. An idyllic setting on the shores of Lake Merritt and outdoor seating on the dock make this a dazzling option for casual or special occasions, although the setting is a little more spectacular than the food. Don't miss the refined, seared day boat scallops and soft herb gnocchi. Or wile away the afternoon on the dock with a house-brewed beer and ceviche. $$$. (H H ½ on 6/25/10)

Lettuce, 1632 Locust St., Walnut Creek. 925-933-5600. A meal of soup, salad and sandwich here refreshes like a mini spa visit, beginning with glass pitchers of fruit-infused water and ending with homemade peach-blueberry galette. In the middle is a spalike menu with 16 salad offerings, six sandwich options and five soups. $$. (H H H on 7/10/09)

Meritage at the Claremont, 44 Tunnel Road, Berkeley. 510-549-8510; www.meritageclaremont.com. Glorious, palm-tree studded views of Berkeley and the Bay Bridge, a Tommy Bahama color palette and deep, dramatic booths set the scene for stylish, beautiful farm-to-table cuisine by executive chef Josh Thomsen. Silky soups and dishes such as seared sea scallops and roasted venison loin, offered in small-plate or entree portions, add up to a luxurious, satisfying dining experience. Don't miss the chocolate souffle. $$$. (H H H on 2/12/10)

Plum, 2214 Broadway, Oakland. 510-444-7586; www.plumoakland.com. Daniel Patterson's new restaurant is spectacular on every level, from the truly inventive, small-plates cuisine -- tender slices of roast pork, resting on golden pools of delicate squash puree, for example, or a smoked white chocolate parfait -- to stunning decor and impeccable service. $$. (H H H H on 12/10/10)

Revival Bar & Kitchen, 2102 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley. 510-549-9950; www.revivalbarandkitchen.com. Dark colors and stylish decor make a chic setting for artisanal farm-to-table, cuisine, with an emphasis on local, organic ingredients, unusual flavor combinations and house-made sausages and pates. Plus, the location -- right in the heart of Berkeley's arts district -- can't be beat. $$-$$$. (H H H ½ on 10/8/10)

Saison, 2124 Folsom St., S.F. 415-828-7990; www.saisonsf.com. Chef Joshua Skenes' Saison offers adventuresome palates an unforgettable dining experience -- an eight-course, New American tasting menu ($98) of stunningly delicate, impeccably executed dishes you likely won't encounter anywhere else in the Bay Area. $$$$$. (H H H ½ on 8/20/10)

INDIAN/ MIDDLE EASTERN

Alborz, 1829 Mt. Diablo Blvd., Walnut Creek. 925-944-9009. This Persian restaurant boasts authentic dishes -- including Joogeh Kabob and grilled Cornish game hen marinated in lime juice, saffron and olive oil -- and a warm, even opulent ambience, with silk rugs covering the floors and huge, romantic paintings on the walls. $$. (H H ½ on 10/15/10)

Oasis Grille, 780 Main St., Pleasanton. 925-417-8438. Oasis' Middle Eastern cuisine blends Mediterranean and Afghani influences. The borani is as good as advertised and the grilled chicken kebab was among the best offering. It could use a little more flavor but is still nicely priced for the area. $$. (H H ½ on 5/29/09)

Zaki Kabob, 1101 San Pablo Ave., Albany. 510-527-5452; www.zakimedcuisine.com. The interior may look like it was decorated by a team of Middle Eastern grandmothers, but the food is top-notch: wholesome and delicious. Don't miss the crispy rotisserie chicken with basmati rice, flavorful sirloin kebabs and roast lamb stew -- wash them down with some refreshing, bright green, mint lemonade. $$. (H H ½ on 11/12/10)

ITALIAN

Bella Ristorante, 5458 Ygnacio Valley Road, Concord. 925-524-0733; www.bellaristorante.com. Abdel Redouane has done it again, putting similar cuisine from his popular Luna restaurant in a more casual setting. You won't find tablecloths here, but you will find his exquisite Mediterranean-style Italian dishes. Classics here are served with a twist, such as lasagna with half marinara and half cream sauces. Desserts are divine. Bella is a keeper. $$. (H H H on 4/24/09)

Jules Thin Crust, Livery and Mercantile, 820 Sycamore Valley Road West, Danville. 925-743-2790; www.julesthincrust.com. These organic, wafer-thin, oblong pizzas bear little resemblance to their Italian cousins, but their fresh toppings, hormone-free meats and intriguing flavor combinations -- such as Brie, sliced pears and mozzarella, or fig jam and Gorgonzola -- delight. There are gluten-free options, too. $. (H H H on 11/19/10)

La Veranda, 444 Railroad Ave., Pittsburg. 925-427-0444. Guests feel right at home in the intimate dining room or sleek bar area. Antipasto choices are well-rounded but not overwhelming; entrees combine fresh ingredients with classic Italian tastes; and the wood-fire oven-baked pizzas are crisp. Save room for the divine chocolate ganache. $$. (H H H ½ on 3/13/09)

Laurus, 3483 Blackhawk Plaza Circle, Danville. 925-984-2250; www.laurussf.com. This Mediterranean-style bistro exudes effortless serenity and sophistication, with a color scheme of soothing taupes, crisp whites and framed botanical prints. Everything is good, but don't miss the halibut with spinach, tomatoes and a couscous and orzo pilaf, or the Meyer lemon cheesecake. $$$. (H H H ½ on 7/23/10)

Mangia Mi, 406 Hartz Ave., Danville. 925-831-3276; www.mangia-mi.com. Comforting Italian favorites at reasonable prices draw crowds to this small restaurant. The decor is contemporary but parts of the menu feel like a throwback to the 1950s, when Americans first fell in love with Italian food. It's a place to become reacquainted with old friends such as meatloaf and hand-rolled gnocchi. $$. (H H H on 6/26/09)

Marzano, 4214 Park Blvd., Oakland. 510-531-4500. The folks behind Garibaldi's have tossed the white tablecloths for a small, focused menu of Neapolitan pizzas Wood Oven Braised Chicken All' Arrabbiata, and fried risotto balls that are the epitome of Sicilian street food. $$. (H H H on 1/16/09)

Trattoria Lupetti, 65 Moraga Way, Orinda. 925-253-7662. The former Pizzeria Amoroma has a new name, but it's still the same cozy, Roman-style restaurant serving up small plates, panini and savory dishes to share, along with Italian and California wines by the glass or the bottle. $$. H H ½ on 3/19/10)

JAPANESE

Sasa, 1432 N. Main St., Walnut Creek. 925-210-0188; http://sasawc.com. This stylish new izakaya restaurant focuses on bold, flavorful Japanese-influenced small plates. The interior is seductive -- lush greenery, a waterfall and tables inlaid with sliced agate gemstones. And what arrives on those tables is equally so: chicken "lollipops" in a sweet and spicy soy caramel sauce, halibut tempura sticks and farm-to-table seasonal fare. $$. (H H H on 9/10/10)

MEDITERRANEAN/EUROPEAN

Barlata Tapas Bar, 4901 Telegraph Ave., Oakland. 510-450-0678; www.barlata.com. A welcoming vibe is paired with a generously long menu, with more than 50 changing items. Spanish favorites are plenty; seafood fans and vegetarians will find satisfying options; and obscure dishes will appeal to the adventurous. $ (per small plate). (H H H on 6/12/09)

Nonni's Bistro, 425 Main St., Pleasanton. 925-600-0411; www.nonnisbistro.net. This small bistro, run by Icelandic chef Jon Magnusson, boasts classic European fare -- steak frites, coq au vin -- with a streak of Scandinavian savoir faire, including house-smoked salmon and a marzipan dessert. $$. (H H ½ on 12/17/10)

Papillon, 37296 Mission Blvd., Fremont. 510-793-6331; www.papillonrestaurant.com. This fine-dining restaurant is not too stuffy or pretentious yet still features white tablecloths and a tuxedo-clad wait staff. Some sheen has faded after 31 years in business, but the food is a cut above the rest. Save room for the out-of-this-world desserts. $$$. (H H ½ on 1/30/09)

The Peasant's Courtyard, 3195 Danville Blvd., Alamo. 925-362-0088. Chef-owner Rodney Worth has brought the rustic comfort food that made Danville's The Peasant & The Pear so popular and added a courtyard setting. Classic American and European bistro dishes are mixed with Mediterranean flair. $$. (H H ½ on 6/19/09)

Post Meridian, 1568 Oak View Ave., Kensington. 510-525-1350; www.postmeridianrestaurant.com. White linens, dainty fresh roses and local artwork give this California-French restaurant a friendly, neighborhood feel. The right ingredients are meticulously woven together in the meals, including the eight entrees offered. $$½. (H H H on 4/21/09)

Prevot's, 613 First St., Suite 100, Brentwood. 925-626-7461; www.prevots.com. Between the prix-fixe menu, the 18 entree options -- including Veal and Prawns a la Grenobloise and other French and Italian dishes -- an oyster bar, a separate tapas menu and a four-page sushi spread, you could spend three months eating nightly at Prevot's and still not taste everything the restaurant has to offer. $$. (H H H on 3/12/10)

Shutters Brasserie, 2018 Elkins Way, Brentwood. 925-516-4131; www.shuttersbrasserie.com. A challenging location out near an industrial park doesn't get in the way of a little culinary magic at this French brasserie, which specializes in bold dishes and local, organic produce. Don't miss the pork chop, a rustic masterpiece made from naturally raised du Breton pigs, studded with ground peanuts and Cajun spices. $$$. (H H H on 6/18/10)

Vinoteca, 148 Prospect Ave., Danville. 925-743-8466; www.vinotecadanville.com. This chic wine bar boasts live music, eclectic boutique wines and a tempting array of Spanish, American and Italian small plates ranging from "Nibbles" -- including crisp calamari with chipotle aioli -- to bocadillo, salads, sliders and delicious flatbread pizzas, including one topped with spinach, prosciutto, bell peppers and mozzarella. $$. (H H on 10/9/09)

Zut! on Fourth, 1820 Fourth St., Berkeley. 510-644-0444; www.zutonfourth.com. This high-quality neighborhood restaurant offers a mixture of cozy, filling Mediterranean-inspired main dishes, including braised pork shank and roasted mushroom risotto, on trendy Fourth Street. $$. (H H H on 12/24/10)

MEXICAN

Cocina Medina, 5005 Lone Tree Way #A, Antioch. 925-753-1968. The restaurant's sunny Mexican charm is accentuated by the authentic flavors of family recipes from Guadalajara. The fajitas are a house specialty and the classic combos are a great way to sample the variety of flavors served up. $$. (H H ½ on 4/17/09)

Maria Maria, 710 Camino Ramon Road, Danville. 925-820-2366; www.mariamariarestaurants.com. You won't find old-school bean-and-cheese burritos at the upscale restaurant chain inspired by musician Carlos Santana. Chef Roberto Santibanez leans toward nuevo Mexican dishes with modern flair. The restaurant is known for its fish tacos -- and top-notch margaritas -- but you can also order tacos stuffed with slow-braised duck and smothered in a roasted tomato-habanero cream sauce. $$. (H H ½ on 8/27/10)

NEW WORLD/ CARIBBEAN

Bocanova, 55 Webster St., Jack London Square, Oakland. 510-444-1233; www.bocanova.com. A stunning waterside location, dramatic but still intimate decor and a Pan-American small-plates menu inspired by that hip new darling of the cuisine scene: food that hails from far, far south of the border. Try the Yucatán seafood stew with plump shrimp, mussels and clams, splashed with a spicy tomato, cilantro and fresh grapefruit broth. $$$. (H H ½ on 12/4/09)

Hibiscus, 1745 San Pablo Ave., Oakland. 510-444-2626; www.hibiscusoakland.com. Bold Caribbean and Creole flavors are made original with California flourishes and lovely ingredients. Not to be missed are the phoulourie (split pea fritters served with, for example, tangy kumquats and parsley salad) and executive chef Sarah Kirnon's famous crispy fried chicken. $$. (H H H on 5/28/10)

THAI/VIETNAMESE

The Corner Modern Thai, 6635 Alhambra Ave., Suite 214, Martinez. 925-280-9998. This family-owned Thai restaurant is a tranquil little neighborhood place, with dark-wood floors and warm hues. Try the Bangkok street food section of the menu, particularly the sweet basil and chicken with crisp green beans. The tom yum soup, pad thai and Panang curry are also good. $. (H H ½ on 9/17/10)

Do Sit Thai Cuisine, 1520 Palos Verdes mall, Walnut Creek. 925-933-3889; www.dosithai.com. This chic Thai restaurant elevates strip-mall dining. The food is fresh and flavorful, and the service and presentation are excellent. The best part? Half the dishes are under $10. Don't miss the curries or the Tom Kha, a creamy coconut milk and chicken soup perfumed with cilantro, lemon grass and galangal. $-$$. (H H H on 1/1/10)

Lanna Thai, 2270 Las Positas Road, Livermore. 925-443-1101; www.lannathailivermore.com. The tom kha soup is a delicious example of this cuisine's elegant balance of flavors. The menu is loaded with curries and sautes to please any palate, and the lively dining room with its earthy green and beige hues, and Thai angel wall hanging feels inviting and casual. $-$$. (H H on 2/19/10)

Vanessa's Bistro 2, 1329 N. Main St., Walnut Creek. 925-891-4790; www.vanessasbistro2.com. Large paintings of Vietnamese open air markets create a sense of place at this offshoot of Vanessa Dang's popular Berkeley restaurant, but the lovely flavor combinations -- Vietnamese tapas with a French twist -- make this a winner. Try the shaking filet mignon salad and spicy lemon grass chicken. $-$$$. (H H ½ on 3/26/10)

Summer Summer Thai, 5885 Hollis St., Emeryville. 510-658-3234. http://summersummerthai.com. This airy, serene Thai restaurant offers an abundance of curries, rice, noodle and wok dishes, plus light, creative wraps and rolls from the restaurant's fresh bar. The emphasis is on local and sustainable ingredients, including organic tofu from Oakland's Hodo Soy Beanery and Petaluma organic chickens and free-range eggs. The Curry a Trois is perfect for sharing. $$. (H H H on 5/21/10)

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