“‘Scarlet’: Nice variety with a few surprises”

‘Scarlet’: Nice variety with a few surprises

Posted: 05 Nov 2010 11:16 AM PDT

If you had to use just one word to describe the appearance of Scarlet, that word would be "charming." Or "nostalgic" — from the outside at least.

But the restaurant — sited in what might once have been a stable or coach house neatly tucked into an alley between Allen and Virginia streets — is contemporary once you enter. It's very vertical, too. The large bar complete with two televisions at the entrance anchors the tall room and there are a few tables for dining.

More dining tables rest on the open mezzanine that surrounds the space. This dim (and sometimes noisy) eating area is reached by means of a long, steep staircase on the far left wall. Puff, puff — but once you get there, the loft is comfy enough, even romantic.

At first glance, the menu seems to be pretty standard. All the popular Western New York menu items are listed. Your stuffed banana peppers, your lobster bisque, classic Caesar salad, pan-seared tuna, rib eye, filet. You know the drill.

But look a little closer, and you can find some surprises. Those peppers are stuffed with Italian sausage and three cheeses ($10). The calamari ($8) is served with rose sauce. Even the egg rolls ($9) are filled with what is described as "Buffalo chicken" and they are served with celery and hot sauce. Someone in the kitchen has imagination — hurray!

We ordered the Lobster and Sweet Corn Fritters appetizer ($11) and loved 'em. They were crisp and tasty and the aioli accompanying those little fried hunks was complementary. The appetizer would easily have been enough for dinner, especially if it were accompanied by a salad. (Portions of almost every dish at Scarlet are among the largest I've seen.)

But another appetizer choice was a bit more modest. Four sea scallops ($11), neatly lined up on plate, each stuffed with andouille sausage, a spicy Cajun cream sauce on the side — the cuisine of the Big Easy is far from dead here.

The entree list offers good variety. Chilean Sea Bass with Herb Butter Sauce and Acorn Squash Risotto ($26); Pork TBone with bacon and apple pan sauce and braised vegetables ($22); Lobster and Wild Mushroom Cream over fettuccine ($32) or pan-seared Ahi tuna in a pineapple ginger broth.

I opted for Shrimp and Grits with andouille, bell peppers and plum tomatoes ($26). That Hot Pepper

Cream sauce on the side was not shy by any means and it made for good eating. I could only get through half the portion, though.

Even the Companion had to cry "uncle." His enormous Lemon Pepper Chicken ($18) was sauteed with artichoke hearts, Roma tomatoes and served over angel hair. Juicy chicken with plenty of pepper and a lemon cream sauce.

Still we bravely pulled ourselves together for dessert. Apple Pie ($7) supposedly made in-house was disappointing. So limp, in both filling and crust. What is it with apple pie in restaurants anyway?

And Flourless Chocolate Cake, if you'll forgive a mixed metaphor, is a dyed-in-the-wool restaurant cliche.

There was a bright spot. Both desserts were helped immeasurably by scoops of house-made ice cream. Peanut butter in the case of the cake; and delicate cinnamon with the pie.•

SCARLET

Three stars

WHERE: 26 Virginia Place (884-2630). A charming restaurant in an old carriage house that offers some interesting dishes.

Credit cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.

FAVORITE DISH: Shrimp and Grits

NEEDS WORK: Apple Pie

PRICE RANGE: Dinner entrees with accompaniments from $18. Most entrees from $25 and up. Sandwiches from $10. Grilled Pizza from $8.

SERVICE: Very good.

HOURS: 4 p. m. to midnight Tuesday through Saturday.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: First floor only.

PARKING: On the street.

RATINGS: Stars reflect the overall dining experience at the time of The News' visit — including service, ambience, innovation and cost — with greatest weight given to quality of the food.

janiceokun@yahoo.comnull

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