“Washington Square Caf� a nice option”

Posted: 30 Jul 2010 02:35 AM PDT

There's one thing you have to have if you're going to review restaurants for the long haul: optimism. (Well, four-way stretch jeans also come in handy.) Despite having had my expectations of restaurants cruelly unfulfilled on many occasions, I always start over with the hope and belief in the possibility that the next place will be pure gold.

Optimism came along with me to Burlington last week, fueled by what I'd heard of the Washington Square Café. It sounded like a nice family-centered home-style café with home-cooked food and desserts - and if that works, what could be better?

It's in a historic building from 1817 along the sweet and historic Jefferson Street. It feels a little like a log cabin inside; homespun and countrified with plaid tablecloths and spindle chairs.

All the tables were taken when we arrived, but luckily there is also a patio that takes up the front yard. It's fenced in, planted and shaded with table umbrellas. It's a charming setting, especially with a happy-hour glass of cold riesling in hand.

I ordered an appetizer while I waited for friends. The first bite into the frozen center of the battered and fried mushroom ($5.99) made me realize that once again I'd have to readjust my expectations. It was the only one in the basket that was still frozen, but it was a rude reminder that most modest cafés with inexpensive menus are going to rely to some extent on pre-made products. It was the only appetizer we got, since the other choices were also fried standards.

The menu has a lot of sandwiches, some salads, a short list of entrées, and a daily special (which was smothered fried chicken that we didn't try). We did try the Reuben ($7.99), a good hearty version on grilled marbled rye with sauerkraut and Russian dressing, though my friend said the corned beef was rather fatty.

The pork chop ($11.99) was good: a thick and well-cooked loin chop, heartily peppered. The meatloaf ($10.99) would have been better if it were not smothered in plain ketchup.

Side dishes such as an iceberg lettuce salad with a couple of rings of onion and a sprinkle of cheddar, green beans with onions, a loaded baked potato and coleslaw were standard. At a homestyle restaurant, I'd like to see some more personalized versions of the standards. The mashed potatoes, which had a few lumps and a texture more smashed than whipped, were nice.

My optimist stuck around for dessert, since there were many choices listed, and all were made in-house. One was excellent: a lime-infused bundt cake ($3.25) - soft but rich, tangy with citrus. Three-berry cobbler ($3.25) had plenty of fresh berries (picked that morning, we were told) but they were atop a heavy, soggy biscuit.

If you live in Burlington or you have some reason to visit the Boone County courthouse, by all means sit outside on a nice day and have something simple, but I wouldn't suggest getting in your car and making a special trip. They do serve breakfast - and I have a sort of optimistic feeling about it.

Five Filters featured article: "Peace Envoy" Blair Gets an Easy Ride in the Independent. Available tools: PDF Newspaper, Full Text RSS, Term Extraction.