“At Corleone's Restaurant and Bar, the Italian fare is a hit”

At Corleone's Restaurant and Bar, the Italian fare is a hit

Posted: 30 Jul 2010 01:29 PM PDT

Published: Friday, July 30, 2010, 4:22 PM Updated: Friday, July 30, 2010, 4:35 PM

Imagine for a moment that you are one of those well-heeled, Italian-American movie or TV characters — you know the ones: dressed to the nines, with questionable business associates and a connoisseur's appreciation of linguine with clams. They always hang out in these sophisticated little Italian joints, the ones with white linen tablecloths, dark wood paneling and a red sauce just like mama's.

Just like these fictitious characters, real-life patrons of the beautiful Corleone's Restaurant and Bar in Parma enjoy a little swank with their spaghetti, thanks to its sleek, upscale d cor and the masterful culinary stylings of co-executive chefs Vito Carrieri and Marlon Mayorga.

Corleone's customers are treated not just to the chic setting, but to outstanding southern Italian favorites, as well as top-notch milk-fed veal and certified Angus steaks.

Pete Bosinger and his wife, Liza, opened Corleone's in 1995, after operating Sneky Pete's in Seven Hills. Bosinger says he wanted to make the transition from a nightclub to the restaurant business. His passion for Italian food manifests itself in every course.

Prices are not cheap here, with entr es topping out at $40. However, portions are large enough that most diners can easily make two meals out of them. In addition, early birds can take advantage of the early dinner seating, available weekdays from 3-6 p.m., when many of the regular menu entrees are available as part of a $12 prix fixe menu ($14 for veal dishes), which also includes soup, bread, dinner salad, and a soft drink.

A heaping platter of calamari fritti ($11) was a perfect start to our recent meal. Corleone's flawlessly executed rendition typifies what makes this dish so appealing — ultra-tender pieces of calamari fried up with a super crispy, light-as-air dusting of flour. Sprinkled with a burst of fresh lemon juice and dipped in a bit of the house's light, fresh, and tomato-y marinara, the calamari offers a bit of heaven on earth. It's sublime.

Corleone's bread is also top-notch — warm, chewy, wonderful. It's served with a plate of fluffy, grated Parmesan cheese and a sprinkling of fresh-snipped herbs, over which our server poured a nice glug of Italian olive oil. The combination of bread and oil thusly served is almost indescribably delicious. I thought to myself, "I could eat nothing but this every day and be happy."

Veal Sinatra ($26) features a veal cutlet topped with an appealing combination of spinach, eggplant, ricotta and provolone cheeses, and savory marinara sauce. There is a nice textural contrast between the crispy breading, the tender veal and vegetables, and the creamy cheeses.

The linguine marinara ($16) is yet another iteration of simple done right. The truly mountainous portion of tomato-bathed pasta is topped by large twin meatballs, picture perfect with their snowy dusting of Parmesan. They are tender and juicy (not fatty), mild, and redolent of the sauce in which they were slowly simmered. You can't fake that flavor profile.

Corleone's has some tempting dessert choices on tap, including a well-regarded tiramisu ($6), but after such filling portions you'll be forgiven if all you can manage is a deliciously smooth amaretto coffee ($5.50).

Corleone's Ristorante and Bar is at 5669 Broadview Road in Parma. Restaurant hours are 4-9 p.m. Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, and 4-11 p.m. Saturday. View the menu and more online at corleonescleveland.com or call (216) 741-0220 for reservations.

Phillips is a freelance food writer in Avon Lake.

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