“India meets China at Mumbai Chopstix”

Posted: 05 Aug 2010 09:19 PM PDT

MUMBAI CHOPSTIX: C

Indian Chinese fare is the draw at Mumbai Chopstix, a new restaurant on Newbury Street from One World Cuisine, the company that operates Bukhara Indian Bistro, Cafe of India, Diva, Kashmir, Mantra and Mela. Ranveer Brar (formerly of Banq and The Claridges hotel in New Delhi) is executive chef.

The story of Indian Chinese food is an interesting chapter in the culinary history of the Chinese diaspora. This blend of Chinese cooking techniques and flavors with Indian sensibilities and spices is said to have originated in Calcutta's Chinatown before spreading to major cities across the subcontinent and (thanks to Indian expatriates) around the world.

At Mumbai Chopstix, the menu offers popular Indian Chinese specialties such as Manchurian meatballs, chili chicken and szechwan fried rice. But to this first-time Indian Chinese eater, too many dishes seem repetitive: protein and veggies awash in the same gloppy sauce.

It's a thick, sweetish, red-colored master gravy that the kitchen liberally employs.

Sprinkled with scallions and cilantro, it's the basis of lachew cauliflower ($6.95) with its soggy, battered and deep-fried florets. And there it is again, although slightly less sweet, swaddling the chili paneer "dry" Hakka style ($7.95) - triangles of fried homemade cheese, red and green bell pepper,onions and slivered ginger.

We were happier with gravy-free appetizers like steamed chicken momos ($4.95) a gingery rendition of the famous Tibetan/Nepalese dumplings. And Mumbai bhel ($4.95) a pleasantly textured mix of puffed rice and puffed rice noodles tossed with yogurt, tamarind and scallions under a garnish of tamarind, yogurt and a crunchy cracker.

There's curry powder in the batter used to make deep-fried, salt-and-pepper squid ($8.95) - strewn with scallions and chili flakes. It's greasy but good. Hoisin flavored pureed duck is the filling for Peking duck samosas ($6). It doesn't work.

That ubiquitous red master gravy returns on many of the entrees. It's speckled with black pepper for shrimp black pepper sauce ($19.95), a stir-fry of shrimp, red and green bell peppers, onions and baby corn. It takes on a distinct fruity flavor for hawker-style eggplant and tofu ($15.95) of Japanese eggplant and fried tofu with oily seared spinach.

It turns downright sugary for sweet & sour pork ($16.95) of deep fried pork, red and green bell peppers, onions, pineapple and lychees. And it's thinner and gingery on the desi chili chicken ($16.95) of pulled white meat chicken, red and green bell peppers, onions and mangos.

The gravy that accompanies beef meatballs Manchurian ($16.95) is a horse of a different color - literally. It's as thick as its siblings, but dark brown, soy sauce salty and studded with curry leaves. The meatballs are excellent on steamed rice.

Chili garlic noodles ($8.95) tossed with red and green bell peppers, onions, baby corn, carrots and mushrooms are garlicky and spicy hot. There's an equally nice chili kick to szechwan style mushroom fried rice ($9.95) of rice, peas, carrots, shiitakes, button mushrooms, scallions, curry leaves and lots of black pepper.

Mumbai Chopstix has decent wine, beer and sake lists. Desserts include delicious apple toffees ($6.95) of caramelized fruit dusted with sesame seeds. And overpriced date pancakes - two tiny phyllo-wrapped packages with ice cream for $6.95.

Service is casual. Some nights you'll receive a complimentary amuse bouche before the meal and gratis sesame candies with the check; other evenings, not.

Located in a gentrified Back Bay brownstone - the former Jewel of Newbury guesthouse - Mumbai Chopstix offers three seating options: an outdoor patio, trendy basement bar and parlor level dining room with Lucite chairs, carved wooden Indian architectural elements and evocative murals painted by chef Brar. But what's with the Audrey Hepburn portrait from IKEA?

254 Newbury St. (Back Bay). 617-927-4444; mumbaichopstix.com.

Price: $20-$40

Hours: Daily - 11:30 a.m.-10:30p.m.

Bar: Beer and wine

Credit: All

Recession specials: No

Accessibility: Steps

Parking: On street, nearby lots

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