“Thai-ASEAN News Network”

Posted: 20 Jul 2010 09:08 PM PDT

Maneeya Dhammataree

Unlike the rather more formal surroundings that might typify a visit to an Italian restaurant in Bangkok, Ciao opts for a more casual approach thanks to its setting within a wooden, open air pavilion.

The beachfront eatery, which almost resembles a large hut on a tropical island, specializes in Italian-based fusion dishes. Based on my recent visit to Ciao, which is operated by Hua Hin Marriott Resort & Spa, it would seem that the restaurant has successfully managed to achieve the delicate balance fusion cuisine requires since the dishes I ordered were both flavorful and original.

An Enticing Appetizer
I began my meal with some Portabello Mushrooms (280 baht [US$8.50]), a traditional Italian dish that I ordered as an appetizer in this case.

The mushrooms were marinated in garlic and were served with rocket leaves, baby spinach, sun-dried tomatoes and a pine seed-based vinaigrette. This was quite an unusual experience as I had not previously been exposed to the balsamic dressing's fairly strong flavor and aroma. Nevertheless, a fellow diner, who was an Italian national, reassured me that this dish indeed represents a traditional form of Italy's national cuisine.

Complementary Combination
My appetite was really stimulated by the next dish – a plate of Potato Gnocchi (240 baht).

Potato Gnocchi is actually a small form of dumpling made from a blend of potatoes, semolina and flour. Priced at 240 baht, the gnocchi at Caio is served with a creamy mushroom sauce and fresh basil. It's not unlike a form of mushroom soup with potatoes, although it's rather creamier than that description might initially suggest and it also benefits from the subtle flavor and aroma of the basil. You could order this dish as an appetizer, as I did, or as a main dish, which is particularly suitable for vegetarians.

Raw Power
From four dishes listed on the salad menu, I opted to order the Seabass Tartare (320 baht).

The Seabass Tartare is served with tender pieces of artichoke, a vegetable that's a common feature of Italian cuisine, along with some salad and a vinaigrette. Unlike the first two dishes I sampled, the Seabass Tartare features a fairly strong flavor, which is generated by the vinaigrette and lemon. Tartare actually refers to the preparation of the fish, which is finely chopped but served uncooked (raw). Fortunately, the taste of the lemon juice and vinaigrette ensure that the dish does not posses any overbearing aromas.

Kai Kauder, who is the executive chef at Hua Hin Marriott Resort & Spa, says that the decision to create a Seabass Tartare was influenced by French cookery. In fact, it's fairly common to find that the major countries that lie alongside the Mediterranean (France, Italy, Greece, Spain and Turkey) tend to be influenced by each other's cuisines.

Beautifully Blended
Another interesting fish-based dish, which was my main course item, is Ciao's Crispy Pan-Fried Seabass (550 baht).

The delicate flesh of the seabass is presented on top of a portion of saffron risotto, which comes with a rich, red-colored capsicum sauce, as well as a salad featuring a selection of herbs. While, strictly-speaking, Italian cuisine rarely serves fish with a risotto dish, this is yet again a case of 'Mediterranean influence', according to chef.

I would have to say that this was my favorite dish overall. The outside was nice and crispy, while the flesh was tender and mouthwatering. The capsicum sauce worked really well as it added just a subtle touch of spice. While it may be a rather unusual practice, as previously stated, the combination of the fish, the sauce with the risotto worked extremely well.

Meat lovers might wish to try the Pine Seed Crust Lamb (950 baht), which makes for an excellent main course option. The lamb is served with a creamy white ragout, featuring green beans as well as mint and lamb jus. The lamb is particularly tender and the accompanying vegetables and jus complement the meat perfectly.

Desserts are another important part of Italian cuisine and Ciao is no exception. Since I really enjoy eating chocolate, I ordered Ciao's chocolate mousse, which turned out to be a really good idea. Based on my dining experience, I think it's safe to say that no matter which dessert you opt for, you're very unlikely to be disappointed.

For further information, or to make a reservation at Ciao, call Tel: +66 (0)32 511 881.

Transport Connections:
Car: From Bangkok, take Highway 35 and follow it along the coast. After passing through Samut Songkhram province, switch over to Highway 4, which will take you all the way to Hua Hin in Prachuap Khiri Khan province.

Five Filters featured article: Headshot - Propaganda, State Religion and the Attack On the Gaza Peace Flotilla. Available tools: PDF Newspaper, Full Text RSS, Term Extraction.